Tropical Adventure in La Selva

January 22, 2021January 22, 2021 / Jet Eliot / 72 Comments

One of the world’s most prominent tropical research centers is located in Costa Rica. A few years back, we had the pleasure and honor of being guests there, settling in with the rainforest creatures.

La Selva Biological Station is located in a lowland rainforest in northeastern Costa Rica. It is owned and operated by a consortium of about 50 universities and research institutions: Organization for Tropical Studies. They are dedicated to the study and preservation of the world’s tropical rainforests.

Although Costa Rica is a small country, it is home to more than 500,000 wildlife species making it “one of the 20 countries with the highest biodiversity in the world.” (Wikipedia) As a Central American country it is a natural land bridge, formed 3-5 million years ago, allowing the very different flora and fauna of the two continents, North and South America, to mix.

Today this biological research station hosts approximately 300 scientists from all over the world. Among the research labs, herbarium, classrooms and dormitories are a few stark rooms for laypeople visitors, where we stayed for four days.

More info: La Selva Wikipedia and Organization for Tropical Studies

Although our accommodation was a concrete cell, La Selva was one of our very favorite places to stay because we were in the center of a pristine rainforest teeming with wildlife. And to be surrounded by enthusiastic scholars of the rainforest, young and old, was a humbling joy.

Every day began when the howler monkeys and screeching parrots announced the dawn. Covered with DEET, long pants and long sleeves, Athena and I headed out into this humid, buggy rainforest each day. Interesting to note: of the 500,000 different wildlife species that Costa Rica hosts, 300,000 of them are insects.

This howler monkey was scarfing up the tree’s orange fruit.

Every day after our cafeteria breakfast, we would visit the tree with the two-toed sloth. S/he was always in the same tree, same limb, and always sleeping. And every day we stood under the tree craning our necks, binoculars and cameras ready, faithfully waiting for the sloth to move.

One lucky day it opened one eye and stretched a little. Of course we were both thrilled.

In La Selva we saw many birds and mammals, reptiles and insects. It is the nature of rainforests to have frequent rain; muddy and moldy ground; an abundance of ants, mosquitoes, gnats; and predators.

Much of the rainforest was dark, due to the thick canopy, but an occasional clearing offered photo opportunities.

We were pretty excited to find this three-toed sloth, a different species than the two-toed above. It was also asleep. They have an extremely slow metabolism, and are so slow they grow algae on their coat. If you look closely at this one below, you can see its furry arm is green-tinged…that’s algae.

There was a suspended pedestrian bridge where we spotted this big male Green Iguana. They are native in Costa Rica.

We also found a Little Tinamou near the bridge. Residents of Central and South America, they are very timid and rarely-seen birds.

We spent all day every day on the La Selva trails. When it got so hot we could no longer stand it, we would buy an ice cream bar at the gift shop and watch toucans and aracaris in the trees above.

Coatis were often around; a raccoon-like mammal seen in Central and South America, Mexico and the southwestern U.S.

Snakes are prevalent in this rainforest. This is the Bothriechis schlegelii, commonly known as the eyelash viper. It is venomous and aggressive, but was quite a distance from us.

There are 894 bird species in Costa Rica, more than all of the United States and Canada combined. Trogons are residents of tropical rainforests, this male was often outside our room.

Oropendolas are large songbirds in Central and South America, in the blackbird family. We saw two different species in La Selva.

Located relatively near to the equator, there were 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of nighttime. By 6 pm every night it was pitch-black.

We walked nearly a mile to the cafeteria, and after dinner the forest was black and very lively. We each wore a headlamp to light our way.

The first night we walked “home” we were intimidated. There were so many mysterious animal sounds, and lots of unidentifiable eye shine on the path beside us. We bravely kept walking.

A few paces later we discovered that what we thought was animal eye shine was actually lightning bugs twinkling in the humid air.

Each night we walked through this dark forest, hearing howler monkeys, watching swooping shadows of nighthawks and bats, serenaded by the tink-tink-tink of the “tink frog.”

By the end of our stay, the after-dinner walk had become a favorite adventure…but we were wise enough not to dally or deviate off the path.

One of my favorite night sounds, heard for miles, was the Great Tinamou’s loud and plaintive song. This is a recording (below) made in La Selva; you can also hear the cacophony of rainforest creatures.

Sound recording of Great Tinamou

On our last day, we had several hours between check-out and when our transport van arrived. Athena had a target species she wanted to photograph: the strawberry poison-dart frog. A student had told us where he’d consistently found them.

That day I would perform one of my most sacrificial photography-assistant tasks ever.

We found the grassy patch the student had described. It had an underlayer of squishy water, and was covered with fallen banana leaves and rotted logs. Because the frogs are small, smaller than your thumb, they vanish quickly in the debris.

We discovered if I walked out ahead, the vibration startled them to hop, exposing their bright tiny bodies, and then Athena would swoop in with her camera. The only problem was that every time I took a step, a cloud of a hundred mosquitoes poofed up around my ankles.

But we forged on, bent at the waist, scanning the grass and debris, enduring the mosquitoes and waiting for this tiny frog to pop up out of the detritus.

We found a few.

It would look like this at first…

… and then she would zoom in and click.

Their bright coloration advertises to birds and other predators that they are toxic. Are they toxic to humans? Yes, but only if you touch them. While the poison-dart frog wasn’t a problem, those mosquitoes made a hearty meal out of me.

I’m glad I could share with you this magnificent research station and our tropical adventure. The nice thing is, dear reader, you went through all of this rainforest and escaped every single mosquito.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

La Selva Rainforest. Photo: Athena Alexander

Sacramento Valley Winter Migration

January 15, 2021 / Jet Eliot / 95 Comments

Snow Geese and Sutter Buttes, Sacramento NWR, California

We are blessed in Northern California every winter with the arrival of millions of geese and ducks. Arriving from Alaska, Canada, and Siberia, the birds spend the winter here on the Pacific Flyway.

The Pacific Flyway is one of four bird migration routes in North America (see map at end). Some waterfowl don’t stay long, they migrate further south in fall. Others stay here for the winter, taking advantage of the mild temperatures. Migratory waterfowl populations peak from Thanksgiving through February. After that, the birds return north to begin breeding.

Roughly 3 million ducks and 1 million geese spend the winter here, according to the Fish and Wildlife Service.

Pacific Flyway Wikipedia

The migratory ducks and geese can be seen all over the Bay Area and surrounding counties, but 44% of them flock to California’s Sacramento Valley. There are several refuges in the valley, the biggest is Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge where there is a self-guided auto tour.

More info: Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge Complex Wikipedia

While most of the Pacific Flyway’s natural wetlands have disappeared in the past 100 years, in the 1930s and 1940s several agencies were formed when the waterfowl populations began to decline. Refuges were established and water diversion projects were eventually set in place. The diverted water aids with agricultural needs and attracts the migrating waterfowl as well.

Today, managers, biologists and refuge workers maintain more than 35,000 acres (14,164 hectares) of wetlands in the Sacramento Valley. Local farmers work cooperatively with agencies, allowing their rice fields to be flooded every winter.

Due to current Covid stay-at-home conditions, we have not yet visited the Sacramento Valley this winter; most photos here are from our visit last winter.

Snow geese, Sacramento NWR, CA. Photo: Athena Alexander.

In addition to the millions of geese and ducks, other birds and mammals join the raucous scene.

We spotted these jubilant river otters in a water-filled ditch where they were gorging on fish.

Otter pair with fish, Sacramento NWR, California

River otter with fish, Sacramento NWR, California

Snow Geese, Sacramento Valley, California

Geese flying, San Joaquin County, Sacramento Vly, CA. Photo: Athena Alexandra.

In between waves of wildly noisy geese constantly landing, taking off, and filling the sky, there are over 200 species of other birds enjoying the safe, protected waters.

Songbirds abound, like this western meadowlark.

Western Meadowlark, Sacramento NWR, California

Egrets and herons are commonly seen, and raptors hunt from the winter-bare treetops.

Red-shouldered Hawk, Sacramento NWR, California

These ibis were probing their long bills in the mud, actively fishing. They eat crayfish, insects, invertebrates and fish.

Flock of White-faced Ibis, Colusa NWR, California

We were fortunate to spot this American Bittern through the reeds. They are solitary, elusive birds, difficult to photograph. They extend their necks and look to the sky when they are trying to hide.

American Bittern, Sacramento NWR, California

Another elusive bird, the ring-necked pheasants shimmered in the sun. Last year we spotted about two dozen individuals, more than usual.

Ring-necked Pheasant, Sacramento NWR, California

Sandhill cranes are a treasured migratory species that winter in the Sacramento Valley, too.

There are also millions of migratory ducks occupying the refuge waters.

Northern Shoveler, male, Sacramento NWR, California

Northern Pintail, male, Colusa NWR, Sacramento Vly, California . Photo: Athena Alexander.

American Wigeon, male, Sacramento NWR. Photo: Athena Alexander.

One recent year at the Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge it was a blustery, rainy day. We came upon this victorious shrike and drenched brush rabbit.

Loggerhead Shrike preying on a praying mantis, Sacramento NWR, California

Brush Rabbit, Sacramento NWR, California

Geese honking, ducks cruising, water sparkling, raptors soaring. Another heaven on earth–this one, a wetland paradise.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

American White Pelican, Sacramento NWR, California

Waterfowl Flyways in the United States. Courtesy Wikipedia.

Berries and Birds

January 8, 2021January 21, 2021 / Jet Eliot / 83 Comments

Cedar Waxwing in madrone tree, California

American Robin, California. Notice how many berries have already been plucked.

Hermit thrush in Toyon berries, California

With the onset of chilly winter days in Northern California, the insects are gone and the songbirds are feasting on berries. And what a party it is.

Native toyon and madrone berries are the most common winter berry on our mountaintop property. They ripen at this time of year when the berries have become essential.

Usually the berries begin to start appearing in fall, and occasionally a songbird will taste one to test for ripeness. If the berry is not ripe yet, it does not get eaten; it stays on the branch until riper days. I have actually witnessed birds taste-testing and then spitting out the unripe berry.

Then in January the feasting begins.

Every year is different depending on rain and temperatures.

This year the thrushes arrived in fall, more than I’d ever seen before. They stayed for a month or so, but when we didn’t get rain they left our mountaintop. I heard them down in the valley while walking in the park. It’s more mild down there.

January came and the rains came, and now the thrushes are starting to return, fortunately.

Meanwhile, the resident finches and some robins have been enjoying the berries.

Soon, as it always goes, a big flock of robins or cedar waxwings will arrive and spend the day here devouring the berries.

That day will be like the circus coming to town.

Birds everywhere, so much hopping and chirping. A blur of songbirds flying from one berry bush to another, lots of commotion and cross-traffic in the sky.

American Robin in Toyon bush, California

American Robin eating toyon berry, Calif.

Robin flocks are unsynchronized and usually several dozen individuals; while waxwing flocks are in perfect synchronicity, and number about two dozen. The cedar waxwings, named for the cedar berries they prefer and the red-tipped wings, fly in formation and land all together in a tree before they disperse to feed.

You can see the tongue on this cedar waxwing.

Cedar Waxwing (juv.) in madrone tree, California

Hermit and varied thrushes are solitary birds, so it’s not as much of a scene. They wait for the big flocks to leave, and then they hop around snapping up the few remaining berries in the shrubs and undergrowth.

We have other native berries here too, like manzanita, coffeeberry, and blue elderberry. Poison oak produces white berries. They all get eaten, but at different times of the year.

In the Bay Area’s mild winter climate, there are many ornamental non-native plants that produce berries and attract birds. The two berry plants I see most commonly in residential neighborhoods are both in the rose family: cotoneaster and pyracantha.

Last fall we were in our friends’ suburban garden two mornings in a row when large flocks of cedar waxwings dropped down to raid the pyracantha bushes. It was a lively and animated scene dominated by dozens of these elegant birds landing above us.

Cedar Waxwing (juv.) flock in pyracantha, California

There is often talk of drunken robins eating fermented berries, though this is something neither I nor Athena have ever witnessed. Scientists don’t really advocate this theory.

I looked at five You Tube videos this week where drunken robins were promised. None of the five showed a teetering robin, but there were zealous flocks plucking at berries and creating a whirlwind of chaos.

Mostly birds prefer the fresh berries, for the sugar content. I have seen them go for the withered leftover berries when there was nothing else available, and maybe those few were fermented. There may be some instances where a bird found a fermented berry….

One of the glories of birds and berries, and life on earth, is the seasons. This season the berries will be eaten, the birds will be nourished, then the days will get longer again, and the thrushes will migrate away, and the spring birds will arrive to begin their mating and nesting.

The sacred cycle of life.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

American Robin in cotoneaster, California

The Gift of Cranes

January 1, 2021 / Jet Eliot / 99 Comments

Throughout time and across the globe, cranes have symbolized longevity, wisdom, immortality, happiness and good fortune. Here is a gift of cranes as we welcome the new year.

There are 15 species of cranes in the world, all in one family, Gruidae. They fall under three genera; each genera–Antigone, Balearica, Grus–is represented here today (pre-pandemic).

Antigone. The sandhill crane, Antigone canadensis, is one of North America’s two crane species.

While not all cranes are migratory, the sandhill cranes are.

In Northern California we welcome their migrations on the Pacific Flyway every winter.

Sandhill cranes and red-winged blackbirds, California

Cranes are gregarious birds and form large flocks. They have specialized trachea and a big vocabulary, a very vocal bird.

Many cultures associate happiness with the crane, and it is easy to see why when you have witnessed their animated flocks and mating dances.

When they reach breeding age, cranes pair off from the flock. They perform conspicuous dances to attract a mate. Waist-high birds swinging their long legs and flapping their broad wings.

Sometimes just two birds are off on the sidelines jumping and trumpeting, other times one pair starts a chain reaction and several pairs begin to flutter and hop.

They do make you want to kick up your heels and celebrate the joy of life.

This male, below, impressed his mate by repeatedly picking up clumps of dirt and tossing them into the air.

Sandhill Crane dance, tossing dirt clumps

Cranes are monogamous. More info: Cranes Wikipedia.

Although cranes are large birds, they are not always easy to spot because they blend into their environment and have their heads down, foraging.

This is what a field of cranes usually looks like. This field has several hundred cranes in it.

Field with sandhill cranes, Northern California

The Sarus crane, photographed below in Australia, is the tallest flying bird in the world, nearly 6 feet (2 m) tall. Antigone antigone. A nonmigratory crane, the Sarus can be found in India, Southeast Asia and Australia.

Cranes are opportunistic feeders and change their diet according to season, location and food availability. They eat both animal and plant matter. We spotted these Sarus cranes on a sweltering day.

Grus. Eight species of cranes are in the Grus genera, including the whooping and wattled cranes shown below.

Some cultures equate cranes to immortality. Whooping cranes, the second of North America’s two crane species, nearly went extinct and were then brought back. That may not be the true definition of immortality, but whooping cranes have done an impressive come-back.

There were once over 10,000 whooping cranes on this continent prior to European settlement. Over-hunting and habitat loss reduced Grus americana to 21 birds in 1941.

Amazingly, today they still join us on this planet. After over half a century of captive breeding and conservation programs, humans have revived the whooping crane population to approximately 800. This bird remains protected on the endangered species list.

A few years ago we visited the International Crane Foundation in Baraboo Wisconsin. It is the only place in the world where all 15 species of cranes can be seen. The Foundation is paramount to world crane conservation.

This first photo is a whooping crane in captivity at the Foundation.

Whooping Crane, International Crane Foundation

This second photo is a wild pair of whooping cranes we spotted while birding at the Horicon Marsh in Wisconsin. They were tiny even in our binoculars, so Athena photographed them through our spotting scope.

Africa hosts six crane species. We were near the Okavango Delta in Botswana when we came upon a flock of these wattled cranes, Grus carunculata, beside a pond. Many crane species are often found near water.

All crane bodies include a short tail that is covered with drooping feathers called a bustle. I found the wattled cranes so elegant with their long bustles, smoky colors, and bright red wattles.

Balearica. The third genera of crane includes this grey crowned crane (Balearica regulorum), found in eastern and southern Africa.

This is one of the most beautiful and exotic cranes I have ever seen…it didn’t seem right for them to be slopping around in the mud. While they foraged, their spiky golden crown feathers vibrated stiffly.

A variety of gregarious, exotic, elegant and dancing cranes to begin your new year. Happy New Year, dear readers, and thank you for another year of good times.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

Sandhill Cranes near Cosumnes River Preserve, CA. Photo: Athena Alexander.

A day for us with the cranes includes lunch and tea and scones

Markets Around the World

December 18, 2020 / Jet Eliot / 88 Comments

Flowers at the market, Seattle, Washington

In the spirit of the holidays during a stay-at-home pandemic, please join me for a magic carpet ride around the world visiting a few lively outdoor markets.

We’ll start in North America and Mexico, cruise over Europe, look in on Australia, and end our magical adventure in South America. (Pre-pandemic photos.)

Outdoor markets are a good opportunity to observe the locals and their livelihoods; and purchase tasty treats and souvenirs directly from the source.

First up: Santa Fe, New Mexico. The local artisan market is located at the Palace of the Governors, an adobe structure built in 1610. Exquisite turquoise and silver jewelry are the specialty sold here.

Santa Fe New Mexico, Palace of the Governors

I bought a pair of earrings from this jewelry artist in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. Her busy hands quietly worked the fine details of her craft as she tended her table.

Jewelry merchant, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Urban markets, in their bustling atmosphere, showcase locally grown specialties and cater to big crowds.

Here are two popular California Bay Area markets.

San Francisco Ferry Building Farmer’s Market, California

Sunday Marin Civic Center Farmer’s Market, Calif.

Local produce is in abundance, usually harvested that morning or the night before and bursting with freshness.

Each market locale has its home-grown specialties.

Salmon, cherries and apples highlight the Seattle markets. Pike Place Market opened in 1907 and remains a popular and fun tourist attraction.

This Ballard neighborhood market (below) was a joy. We pitted five pounds of cherries with our friend after we left here, made jam.

Ballard Farmer’s Market, Seattle, Washington

Washington State specialties, Ballard Market, Seattle, WA

Watermelon in Mexico…

Watermelon Cart in Mexico. Photo: Athena Alexander

… and grapes in wine country.

Grapes, Marin Farmer’s Market, San Rafael, Calif.

The celebration of outdoor markets at Christmastime requires mentioning the Christmas Markets in Germany and Austria. Classic holiday markets featuring sparkling light displays, outdoor stalls, traditional foods and beverages. Although I have not been to these markets, several friends have brought them alive for me.

Before we cross the Equator, I have to check on the magic carpet’s fuel level. It’s a good time to take a few minutes to click into the famous markets in Vienna…the first of which was held in 1298.

My friend and fellow blogger Mike Powell has dazzling photos from his visit last year: Vienna Christmas Market and Vienna Christmas Lights.

The magic carpet is in good shape, so we’ll glide on over to Australia to The Rocks Market in Sydney. I have spent many hours here buying souvenirs, but one of the most memorable items was quickly eaten up: a giant garlicky meatball.

The Rocks Market, Sydney, Australia. Harbour Bridge in background on left.

Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge. Photo: Athena Alexander

I like all the markets–busy with people in their life’s work, live music and savory aromas.

But it is the remote village markets that are my favorite. Foreign lifestyles, rural and non-commercial, sometimes a foreign language barrier, yet still universally human and earthly.

We came across this busy African market in Arusha, Tanzania.

In Kenya we arrived by motorboat to this village island market in Lake Baringo, Kenya.

Njemes Village, Lake Baringo, Kenya. Our guide, in green.

Fishing boats, Lake Baringo, Kenya, Africa. Photo: Athena Alexander.

Across the globe in the shadow of Peru’s towering Andes Mountains, various crops like potatoes, corn and grains are terrace-farmed and sold.

All the big, lumpy bags in this village’s market are filled with potatoes.

While in the Amazon valley, we spotted these just-picked bananas being brought down the Madre de Dios River to be driven to market.

Madre de Dios River, Amazon Valley, Peru; bananas go to market

Traditional textiles of Peru date back over 10,000 years and remain an attraction for quality craftsmanship and fine alpaca wools. We found many markets selling woven tapestries and clothing throughout the Cuzco region.

Chinchero plaza market, Andes Mtns. in background

I bought this purple sweater from this weaver.

Jet with weaver of just-purchased alpaca sweater. Chinchero, Peru

I hope this magic carpet ride revived a few of your memories of markets or farmers or good times. I extend my warmest wishes for sweet moments in your holidays.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

Ollantaytambo, Peru. Photo: Athena Alexander

Oh Deer

December 11, 2020 / Jet Eliot / 88 Comments

Elk female, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado

Fawn, black-tailed deer, Point Lobos, California

With the upcoming visit of Santa and his reindeer, this is a good time to brush-up on deer facts.

Deer and antelope are often mistakenly thought of as the same creature. While they are similar in shape and structure, they are different species in different families.

The main difference between the two: antelope have permanent horns, whereas deer (males) have antlers they shed and grow anew every year. Antlers are bone, and are an extension of the skull.

Male elk with Bighorn sheep, Rocky Mtn. NP, Colorado

The deer family, Cervidae, is represented here by caribou, moose, elk, and of course deer. Although there are deer on all continents except Australia and Antarctica, these were all seen in North America.

Caribou are native to the arctic and can be found in northern parts of North America, Europe and Siberia. In North America they are called caribou, in Europe they are called reindeer; both are the same animal, Rangifer tarandus.

The males have huge racks which they drop every year.

Moose, another kind of deer, are the largest and heaviest species in the deer family. In Europe they’re called elk; with the scientific name of Alces alces.

The first time I saw a moose was on a hike in an aspen grove near Anchorage, Alaska. A solitary mammal, she grazed while we quietly stared and photographed; and we all remained like that for nearly half an hour.

I was astounded by how tall she was. Adult average height: 4.6-6.9 feet tall (1.4-2.1m). Her tall, long-legged body towered over us, the top of her back was nearly six feet off the ground.

In Colorado, we saw this mother moose (below) with her just-born twins. She was quite far away near a river, and her calves were barely able to stand.

Moose cow with twins, Rocky Mtn. NP, Colorado

Moose Wikipedia.

Moose love water.

Another kind of deer, the elk, aka Cervus canadensis, can be found all over North America, Central and Northeast Asia. There are many subspecies; six in North America. The Native American term is wapiti, and in Europe they are called “red deer.”

We came across this female herd in Yellowstone.

Elk Wikipedia.

They are sociable animals and are usually found in herds. Bulls are territorial only during mating season. When they are rutting, or competing for females, they behave restlessly and become vocal with their bugling. Although the sound varies with each individual, it has a screaming quality to it and can be heard for miles.

Bugling E lk YouTube by Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation

These three males were in conflict, they were bugling loudly and crashing antlers.

Three tule elk bulls in conflict, Point Reyes, California

This one was bugling the loudest and showing great bravado.

Tule elk bull bugling, Pt. Reyes, California

When not in the rutting season, the elk are placid and beautiful.

Bull, cow, calf tule elk, Pt. Reyes, California

In Colorado, we found this cheeky young male having a good laugh.

Typical-looking deer are of course in the deer family and include mule, white-tailed, and black-tailed deer. There are many subspecies.

This quiet trio of white-tailed deer were seeking refreshment on a hot day in Nevada. The most common deer in North America, they also occur in many other parts of the world.

Where I live in Northern California, we have the black-tailed deer who range from here up the coast into British Columbia. They are a subspecies of the mule deer.

Black-tailed deer, Point Reyes, California

On our property we are lucky this season to have the not-so-scientifically named holiday deer lighting our way.

May we all have the gentleness of deer, Santa’s or otherwise, steering us forward during this holiday season.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

Maui Moments

December 4, 2020December 4, 2020 / Jet Eliot / 103 Comments

Palm trees and ornamental ginger (red), Maui

Palm trees of Maui with view across Pacific Ocean to Lanai

It’s this time of year that I often get the call of Hawaii. It’s not a phone call or a text, but the Aloha spirit, reaching out, whispering of the warm ease and sweet fragrance, sea breezes and lapping waves.

No trip to Hawaii this winter, it’s not a safe or wise time to travel. I’ve put that call on hold. But when it’s time, I’ll be back to Maui, one of my favorite islands in America’s 50th state.

You can google Maui activities and come up with hundreds of ways to spend your time, below are a few of my favorites.

The second-largest of the Hawaiian Islands, Maui rose up from the sea in the form of two shield volcanoes. Today the island is two mountains: West Maui and Haleakala. They are old volcanoes and dormant.

My favorite thing about Maui in winter is the humpback whales. They’re everywhere.

From December through April, up to 10,000 humpbacks migrate to Maui from Alaska, to breed. The water is warm and shallow–good conditions for birthing and avoiding deep-water predators.

You can spot whales just about anywhere, evident by the exhalation breath spraying from their blowholes.

Whales have been migrating here for centuries. Lahaina, a city on the west coast of Maui, was a lively center for the global whaling industry in the 1800s.

These days whale-watching is the big attraction on Maui, and harpooning is out. An exciting way to spend the day is on a whale-watching boat, cruising the waters looking for whales, and waiting for that special moment when they breach.

Snorkeling is great fun, too. A good map of the island (published by University of Hawaii Press) will yield hundreds of suggestions for good snorkeling beaches, and is helpful for bypassing some of the more web-linked popular tourist spots.

This bay, below, is off the radar. We had to trek through some overgrowth to get to it, and the beach is not sand, it’s rocks. But under that water we found butterflyfish, parrotfish, goatfish, tangs, triggerfish, wrasse and more. Left center in this photo are three dots. Those are the only other snorkelers. That, to me, is paradise.

Sea turtles bob around, and, if you’re lucky, you might hear the singing of the humpbacks underwater. We did.

This spotted dove joined us on the beach.

Birds on the Hawaiian Islands are either native or introduced. Natives are the prize for birders, but rare; most are introduced, they arrived on the islands in numerous ways centuries ago.

It is interesting to see the array of introduced birds in the lowlands, but it is absolutely thrilling to go to the mountains and find some of the rare, native birds.

Introduced, non-native birds in the lowlands are bright and exotic. Hotel and resort grounds, residential backyards, and parking lots are festive with them.

Introduced lizards, like this green anole, thrive in ornamental landscapes.

But if you want to see what the Real Maui looks like, you have to leave behind the warm temperatures and sea frolics of the lowlands, and head up to the higher elevations.

We never go to Maui without at least one, preferably two, day-trips to Haleakala. From the west coast, where we usually stay, it takes 2-3 hours to reach the summit.

The farther you drive away from the tourist towns, the more Hawaiian culture you will find. Fruit stands brimming with papayas and guava and homemade banana bread, school kids getting off the bus, local life.

Then, as you ascend Haleakala, you come to overlooks with views over the whole island–land and sea. If you scan the sea with binoculars, you will see a whale spout or two in the distance.

About 75% of the island of Maui is Haleakala…that’s how big the mountain is. The tallest peak: 10,023 feet (3,055 m).

One of our favorite Haleakala places to go is Hosmer Grove. We have spent many rain-drenched hours searching for rare, prized native forest birds in this thicket, below, in Haleakala National Park.

Inside that mass of tangled trees we were rewarded with sightings of several native birds, two shown here. They have the curved bills to draw nectar from flowers.

At Haleakala’s summit are incredible overviews of this sacred mountain and its cinder cones.

Haleakala summit overview, Maui. White car in lower right corner for perspective.

Only a few plants, birds, and insects live on the summit with its harsh conditions and volcanic slopes.

Jet at Haleakala Look-out Station. Silversword plants in foreground. The grounds are volcanic cinder.

Just a few virtual moments in some of your favorite places are a pleasant reminder that we have a marvelously diverse planet, and many more adventures await us.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

Fern at Hosmer Grove, Haleakala NP, Maui

A Great Day at Point Reyes

November 20, 2020 / Jet Eliot / 112 Comments

Point Reyes, Tomales Point, Pacific Ocean side

I had the pure joy of spending the day at Point Reyes last week. It is a National Seashore park on a peninsula that juts out into the Pacific Ocean in Northern California. One of my favorite spots in the whole world.

Even though we only covered a small part of this vast park, we were greeted by an exciting cast of characters.

The first friend we met was a coyote. Canis latrans was far back in a field at first, just a dot on the horizon. It seems more often than not, when we see a wild mammal they are heading away from us. But for a refreshing change, this coyote was coming closer.

S/he was moving quickly, a steady gait with occasional sniffing stops.

We used the car as a blind and the coyote came relatively close, didn’t even notice us.

We watched appreciatively for about ten minutes. The coyote cocked its head to the side, keenly listening to the rustle of underground rodents.

Then it pounced on something, and instantly came up with prey–bigger than a mouse, and dark. Probably a mole. With a few jerks of the head, the coyote ate the mole and continued on its way.

Usually there is long grass in this field, and a large herd of cattle; not much going on. But this fine day we hit it lucky with the mown grass and hunting wildlife easily visible. The field had been recently mowed, stirring up insects and rodents, drawing in predators.

A great blue heron was busy in the grassy field, and ravens landed frequently. California quail were scurrying about, white-crowned sparrows were in abundance.

Down by the pond, a black-tailed deer quietly chewed.

A Wilson’s snipe even made an appearance. They spend the winter here.

Further down the road we came upon this bobcat. Just like the coyote, its grass-colored coat blended into the terrain, but didn’t slip our notice.

Point Reyes has a tule elk reserve, it’s the only national park unit where tule elk can be found. The population is currently thought to be averaging about 420 individuals.

We had seen the tule elk here dozens and dozens of times, and knew it was rather late in the day to see them. Usually they move far back into the hills by late afternoon.

But again we hit it lucky, and saw about a dozen individuals. We knew where to look. They were distant at first, about the size of a grain of rice.

A group of females, a harem, were on a ridge grazing. They were molting, growing their winter coats.

Just behind the elk harem, a male Northern Harrier was kiting, i.e., flying in place, hovering. Hunting.

Out in the distance, the Pacific Ocean reached to the horizon. A long stretch of sea, a separate world of its own rhythms.

The briny scent, the incoming fog, the gathering storm clouds and the glory of safe, fresh air calmed our frayed nerves.

Despite the election tension, the Covid surges, and the park’s recent 5,000 burned acres, there was nothing really different here. Turns out, that was just what we were looking for.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

An Afternoon with Alex Trebek

November 13, 2020 / Jet Eliot / 75 Comments

One year, in a departure from our much-loved wilderness adventures, we made a trip to the bustling urban metropolis of Los Angeles for one reason: to see Alex Trebek.

It is a great honor to share our afternoon in the Jeopardy! world, a world that, sadly, Alex Trebek left this week after a noble fight with pancreatic cancer. Canadian born and raised, Alex Trebek was America’s Favorite Game Show Host.

It was 2013 and Jeopardy’s 30th year–a popular American question-answer television quiz show. They were taping five shows a day, three in the morning and two in the afternoon. We had signed up for an afternoon in the Jeopardy! studio, driven eight hours, and the next day watched the television taping of two consecutive shows.

This television show took place like most, in a sea of concrete lots in the land of Hollywood.

Athena and I stood in a long line, and eventually a studio employee gave us instructions and led about 50 of us into the building. It was essentially a warehouse, a labyrinth of narrow hallways and plywood walls.

The line for Stage 14, Sony Pictures Television Studio

For purposes of keeping the show’s questions and winners a secret, we were not allowed to take photos or have our phones on.

This television show, like most, was taped live; i.e., the show is performed live with only a few minor post-edits.

Jeopardy! has been on the air for 37 years and has accumulated more Emmy awards (35) than any other game show. Alex Trebek has also won seven Emmys for outstanding game show host and a Peabody Award as well.

Jeopardy's trophies — Jeopardy’s trophies

It was easy to see what made him outstanding.

They led our parade to the audience seating where we saw contestants on stage rehearsing with a pseudo-host. The three contestants were getting familiar with their signaling devices and answering fake questions, while production staff and sound engineers bustled around adjusting microphones, cameras, and lights.

We were now the studio audience and our job was to clap loudly and not utter any other sound.

When it was time, the countdown started: Five, Four, Three, Two….

All overhead lights were extinguished and bright pink lights flooded the stage. An “On the Air” light flashed on. The Jeopardy! theme song, as familiar to me as a lullaby, blasted the studio.

Johnny Gilbert at his lectern shouted out in his booming voice, “This Is Jeopardy!”

I was so excited I thought I was going to explode.

Then Alex Trebek came onto the stage in his energetic happy-go-lucky walk, smiling and thanking all who were present.

Johnny Gilbert gestured for us to clap. I looked around and saw the whole studio audience smiling broadly and clapping heartily.

Although there is much illusion in the world of television and film, one thing was authentic from the start: Alex Trebek.

During the commercial breaks he came over to us. Handsome and personal, he was dressed in a dapper suit and fine leather loafers. He entertained us with his dry humor and self-deprecating jokes. Told us personal things, like his favorite color (gray), answered all our questions.

At one point, in answer to a question, he nimbly tap-danced for an impromptu half-minute.

At 7:30 that morning Mr. Trebek had received the material for all five shows of the day. With 61 clues and answers per show, and five shows, he facilitated 305 questions a day in front of a live audience and nine million TV viewers.

He hosted over 8,000 Jeopardy! shows.

He covered questions and answers spanning all of the world, gliding seamlessly over accents and pronunciations, making jokes, and connecting to everyone in their living rooms.

What was most clear to me as we sat in that audience: he worked so hard and made it look so easy.

Before the show began, we were also introduced to Johnny Gilbert. He was the announcer and had been working beside Alex Trebek on the Jeopardy! stage for three decades. He was friendly and outgoing and somehow made us want to do anything possible to make the show go perfectly.

We were also introduced to the Clue Crew and the eight judges.

Jimmy McGuire, Sarah Whitcomb Foss, Alex Trebek, Kelly Miyahara

Once when a contestant answered a question, but not quite right, there was a quiet stirring of researchers and judges in the darkened sidelines, and within seconds the correct answer was announced.

Several hours later, after the shows were done, we were escorted into the front room and allowed to take photos. Mock contestant booths and a cardboard Alex kept us all busy. Before exiting, we were given a post card with the dates when “our” shows, #6749 and #6750, would air.

Two months later, on schedule, we watched “our” shows on TV.

Athena pretending to be a contestant — Athena, mock contestant

Jet and Athena with cardboard Alex Trebek

Alex Trebek made everything look easy, it was part of his panache. But until Jeopardy!, his broadcasting career was a whirlwind of cancelled shows and long commutes across international borders. He spent the first decade of his career hustling for work.

He got his start on Jeopardy! while filling in for the host of “Wheel of Fortune,” pre-Pat Sajak.

Over the years he became a cultural icon, his enthusiasm was contagious and his consistently smooth style was charming. He hosted contests, other game shows, and often appeared as himself in movies. He gave much of his time and fortune to the world.

The question is: Who was the most remarkable game show host of all time and will be deeply missed?

The answer is: Who is Alex Trebek.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

Television studio lot at Sony Pictures in Culver City, CA

Creatures of the Night

October 30, 2020 / Jet Eliot / 105 Comments

Giant Eagle Owl, aka Verreaux's Owl, Botswana, Africa — Giant Eagle Owl, aka Verreaux’s Owl, Botswana, Africa

When the sun goes down and the night turns black this Halloween, there are plenty of wildlife creatures to send shivers up the spine.

Owls, our most famous nocturnal creature, have serrated feathers for silent flight. They can glide right past you invisibly and soundlessly…all you know is a faint breeze on your face.

The shadows of the rainforest can make the small creatures large…

and the large creatures gigantic.

Baird's Tapir, female adult, Belize — Baird’s Tapir, female adult, Belize

And where would our scary nights be without bats? In Australia the bats are so big their scientific name is megabats. Here are two species of megabats.

Pair of Spectacled Flying Foxes, Australia

Grey-headed Flying Fox, Australia. Photo: Athena Alexander

In the Trinidad rainforest we discovered a steady stream of these Long-tongued Bats shooting out of the lodge basement every night at cocktail hour, like clockwork.

Long-tongued bats, Asa Wright Centre, Trinidad

A walk through the Australian rainforest brings out animals most of us have never heard of like brushtail possums and sugar-gliders.

Sugar Glider, Queensland, Australia. Photo: Athena Alexander.

Even creatures who are not nocturnal, like this lizard, lurk in the night…they have to sleep somewhere.

One night while Athena was photographing sugar gliders, cicadas came in, attracted to the lodge’s yard light.

I was admiring their bright green color and thinking how much bigger their cicadas were here in Australia, than ours at home. Bigger than my thumb.

I thought they were very cool…until one landed in my hair.

I screamed. Panicked and beat my hands through my hair like a crazy person.

And Africa has a very animated night life when it comes to wildlife. Moths as big as birds; and of course all the nocturnal mammals that are out hunting–lions, leopards, hyenas, to name a few.

Leopards, Zambia. Photo: Athena Alexander

The African savanna at night is like no other place on earth. Bumping along in a jeep past the black expanse, at first you see nothing. But then you start to see eerie eyes shining back at you. Pairs of eyes. Everywhere.

The eye shine has to do with a reflective layer behind the retina that helps the animal see better in the dark.

We were cruising along when we heard a lot of sloshing. The guide whispered for us to get our cameras ready.

Here’s what the light revealed.

The most terrifying night sound I have ever heard was in the Amazon rainforest: the howler monkeys. I’ve mentioned it before, but will include a sound clip again.

Howler monkeys are territorial so when one starts howling, announcing its supreme existence, they all start up. It has a stereo effect that permeates the forest in the most haunting way, sounds like a combination of tornado winds and deep-voiced gorillas.

Imagine hearing this in the dark as you’re walking to the bathroom.

Howler Monkey Vocalization

Wild monkeys, hyenas, leopards, owls, bats…a great way to get your Halloween sufficiently spooky. And while these animals may get your heart jumping, erratically even, they’re really not interested in hurting you…well, some aren’t.

Written by Jet Eliot.

Photos by Athena Alexander.

Spectacled Owl with Fer-de-lance snake, Belize